Monday, January 25, 2010

The Excitement Continues

A lot more has happened since I posted yesterday. Just a few things for now, as I'm sitting at a place in Kiryat Shmona, on a computer that isn't mine. I came with Beni up here so he could drop off some of the fire extinguishers from the kibbutz with the guy he works with up here. It just so happens that it's right near the restaurant we didn't get the chance to eat at on the Jeff Seidel trip to the Golan last spring. We ate in our bus instead. It's always fun coming back to places I've been before for totally different reasons. On the drive up here we took the scenic route through the Golan, which was absolutely stunning. It's been raining on and off today- at first we drove through the rain, stopped, it caught up to us, drove through it again and now it's finally caught up with us once more. We stopped a couple of times along the way to get out and look at the Jordan River which, because of the rain, is flowing magnificently.

A little bit about yesterday- I went roaming around the kibbutz, out towards the fields and the date trees. The wind was blowing gently and it was just warm enough to be perfect. I came back, napped for a bit, and then went with Beni and another member of a kibbutz to a local moshav where a lot of Iraqis-Kurds- have built magnificent homes. We were going to inquire about a baker who they wanted to make cakes and cookies for the new cafe they're planning on opening on the kibbutz. It was a small room but there were tiny little cupcake like goodies all over and the aroma was overwhelming. We got to try these little cupcake things that were made of semolina and had dates inside. WOW.

Driving back onto the kibbutz, we drove around where the animals are kept and stopped in the middle of two pens. Water Buffalo. I got to pet water buffalo. One even licked my hand. They're beautiful animals and seemed pretty tame. They don't belong to the kibbutz- they're babysitting in a way, for another place that raises them. However, Beni was telling me they want to try having water buffalo to make mozzarella. I think it would be a great idea. You can't go wrong with homemade mozzarella.

That's about it for now. Another post later!

Sunday, January 24, 2010

A little piece of heaven

I'll post the blog that I wrote while on the bus up to Sde Eliyahu, the Kibbutz I'm staying on for two days, but I didn't want to miss the opportunity to share my first impressions. As soon as I got off the bus, I knew that my stay here would be amazing. I was let off at Tzomet Ein HaNatziv, Ein HaNatziv Junction, which is right by the religious kibbutzim in the area. I waited for five minutes or so for Beni to come pick me up. When I spoke to him on the phone earlier, he told me he'd be coming in a white pickup to meet me. In the five minutes I waited for him, I think I saw around fifteen white pickups. I guess it's the vehicle of choice around here. The area I'm in, the Beit She'an valley is stunning. It's in between the Gilboa mountains and the border with Jordan. The first thing we did was drive to Ein haNatziv, where he showed me the ma'ayan (spring) that they're famous for. I recognized the entrance to the kibbutz from the last time I was up here with Emily and Amit on our way to see Ruvik. We stopped at this kibbutz and tried to gain entrance to see the ma'ayan but since we weren't members of the kibbutz we weren't allowed. This time, however, I was with someone from another local kibbutz so we were allowed in. It's a nice little spring with a rope to swing and jump in from and a little dock. The water was pretty clear and there were some fish swimming about. From there we drove along some small dirt roads to a small waterfall in a cove made by some trees that has resulted from extra water from the pipes that run down into the valley that feed into a hydroelectric plant. I'll hopefully post some of those pictures later.
We drove around the area while Beni explained what we were seeing and a bit of the history of the place. He pointed out the lone wind turbine up on mt. Gilboa. There's only one because the "greenies", as he calls them, said that the noise they make disturb the deer in the area. Just over the ridge from where we were looking is Jenine (sp?) which is, I believe, an Arab village where a lot of fighting took place. At this point we had driven up alongside one of the fish hatcheries in the area. It didn't belong to Sde Eliyahu, but to one of the other kibbutzim. He pointed out some of the birds like the comerant and a kite that was flying by. The comerant is a pest because it eats fish from the hatcheries. The kites on the other hand, along with the kesterals, are used as an active scarecrows. They put meatmeal down on their fields so the comerands will come eat while the other smaller birds who come to nosh on their harvests are intimidated by the bigger birds so they stay away. He explained that they also use owls to eat the field mice in the fields. During the mating season a barn owl couple eats between 2000 and 5000 mice and they have 120 couples spread out over their fields. Pretty ingenious idea.
Before we came onto the actual kibbutz, we drove around the fields. I got to pick some fresh dill, which smelled amazing, and see one of the trucks dump the dill it had just harvested into a big barrel. Sde Eliyahu is known for its herbs, fish, compost, and I think they also have a dairy and meat producing plant as well. We ate lunch in the communal dining hall. I was introduced to a few people and then showed to where I would be staying, the library where his wife works, and then to his house where I am now, using the computer.
An example of how awesome this place is:
"You want tea? Take some of this plant"
"Mmmm it's nana (mint)"
"Here are the cups, here's the teapot. Oh and here, rub this plant and smell. It's lemon. Nana and lemon"

We went out to the backyard and he started collecting something from the ground. Pecans. There's a whole box of them. He said the worst thing about living on a kibbutz is you eat all the time. I'm quite happy with that.
I'm going to go retrieve my camera and wander around. There are a few places I want to explore and take pictures of. Later on I'll put up my post from earlier!

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Down time in the Holy Land

It's been a while since I've last written and a lot, well in some ways a lot has happened. I've been on two more village visits, Beit Sahour and Ein Rafa. We went to Ein Rafa on the 9th around 4 pm. It's really close, only about fifteen to twenty minutes outside of Jerusalem, but it took us a while to get there because of traffic into the rotary by Abu Ghosh, an Arab town known for it's amazing hummus. It's where all of the secular Jews go on Shabbat to have lunch. Sounds kind of like what my family did on Christmas day, except we went to Dim Sum!

Ein Rafa was pretty great. We ran the clinic on an enclosed court with about fifteen kids to start off with. All of them were boys in the beginning ranging in ages from 7 to about 12/13. Towards the end, more kids showed up including some older boys and girls. By the end there were about 26 kids, which was pretty impressive. They were a rowdy bunch of kids- throwing frisbees everywhere, even kicking them like soccer balls sometimes, but they were good and seemed pretty into what we were doing with them. We set up two teams like we did in Be'er Tuvya to have some mini competitions and all of the kids really got into them. A couple times they all got down on one knee and made chanting sounds with gestures at the other side. It was their way of getting them pumped and riled up. This time around it was a little harder to communicate with them because I don't know any arabic and they didn't speak much english. The local coach and the area coordinator helped out, but when I was with them in smaller groups I found myself trying to show rather than tell them. It worked out in the end but it was a bit frustrating at times.

On the 14th we went into the West Bank to Beit Sahour, a Palestinian village with a large Christian population. It took us over an hour and fifteen minutes to get there on a trip that shouldn't have taken longer than 45 minutes because we made a wrong turn (miscommunication with the coordinator we were picking up) and got stuck in a really long line of traffic. The drive to the school led us through winding roads, up and down very steep hills- but that's the area for you. As soon as we arrived at the school, we were beckoned by the coach to come drink tea with him. Of course it was delicious and full of tons of sugar, but it was a nice little pick me up before starting our clinic. At this village visit there were more girls than boys. I think there were about 18 total kids and they were probably from 6-10th grade or so. A few older boys showed up later. The coach this time was extremely helpful, coming around showing the kids what to do, encouraging them- but then again he's the sports coach at the school in a program with about 100 kids. They girls were good- there were some who were more athletic than others but they all seemed to enjoy themselves immensely.

Other than village visits, I've done a little walking around and exploring, although I hope to do more of that in the next week. There are parts of Jerusalem I want to roam around and definitely other parts of the country. I think I'm going to head up to Akko, which is where the holiest place for the Bahai is, but is also apparently a pretty great place, and maybe a day trip up to tzfat.

Today I went into Tel Aviv for Ligat Cova 8, a HAT frisbee tournament for anyone who wants to sign up and pay. I got to Tel Aviv really early because I walked with Aliza and Hanan to the Reconstructionist Minyan downtown at HUC. Unfortunately I couldn't go to both that and the tournament, although I would've loved to go. The weather was spectacular today. Bright, sunny blue skies. 75 degrees. When I got to the fields where there were supposed to be frisbee players gathering, I was suprised to find what seemed to be a rugby tournament. I've never actually seen a rugby game played. I'm not going to lie, it's a bit weird. I finally spotted some lone discs floating here and there and found my way over to those who were gathering to play. Apparently someone is supposed to check that the fields are free but that someone forgot this time around. It ended up being ok. We made fields a little bit further down. There were 4 teams and each team played three games. We didn't win any of our games but we did tie for the spirit award. I just had a good time playing frisbee and hanging out with some cool people.

That's it for now. Hopefully I won't take so long to write another post!

Thursday, January 7, 2010

Village Visit #1: Be'er Tuvya

I just got back from a 3 hour walk around Jerusalem. That's pretty much all I've done since I got here. Today I met a friend for shawarma downtown, after which we walked, well more like strolled, to the old city, wandered around there for a bit, then headed back. Three hours later I'm back in her apartment nice and relaxed on her couch, wanting really badly to take a nap, but that probably isn't the best thing for my jetlag.

It's already been two days since the first village visit, even though it feels like forever. On Tuesday January 5th, Becca Polivy (one of the organizers of Ultimate Peace here) along with two other volunteers and I drove to Be'er Tuvya Regional school which is on the Be'er Tuvya moshav. A moshav is kind of like a kibbutz, but not everything on a moshav is shared. In the past decade or so, kibbutzim and moshavim have started to look more and more alike, but that's not really important. Earlier on in the day I met up with Alanna, someone I used to work with at camp who is now here for her third year of Rabbinical school.

At 2:30 I walked over to Becca's house, met up with her, and then we walked to meet up with Jacki, another volunteer who lives in Natanya and is here working for Habonim Dror (a socialist labor zionist movement). We were picked up by the fourth volunteer, Jez, also part of Habonim Dror, I believe, who is from the UK. We arrived in Be'er Tuvya a little bit before 4 pm and found our way to the space where we would be running our program. It was a small sized gym, probably the size of a gym you'd find in an elementary school in the states. I was introduced to Inbal who works with the Peres Center for Peace, and another woman who is the Israeli coordinator on this side. There were 8 kids and one coach there. 7 of the 8 kids were girls, one boy, and I think about 4 of the 7 girls had been to Tel Aviv last April for Ultimate Peace in the Middle East. I knew this because I recognized one or two of them from the team I coached, which was pretty exciting. Jacki started off by talking a bit about Ultimate in Hebrew, although most of the kids already knew what she was talking about. There were two girls from the school who had never played before, but when we got them tossing, they all looked like naturals. It was great seeing the girls who play Basketball with the Peres center playing so hard and it looked like they were having a great time. We ran a bunch of drills with them, ending around 5:20, after which I got a chance to speak with Inbal about getting the opportunity to interview some of the kids and getting my written consent forms to them and their parents. Truthfully, that's the only thing I'm worried about dealing with and making sure happens. I have some more work to do on my IRB proposal and a few articles and books to read while I'm here, but there is definitely plenty of time to do that in the next few weeks.

After the program, we killed some time at a place called Bilu Junction, which was basically a pretty good sized mini mall, equipped with bungee jumping for kids and even a little ferris wheel thing. We got food and sat in a cafe that had wireless, which was nice because I got the chance to talk to a few people online. Around 8 we drove to Rishon Litzion to go to a frisbee practice with the local team there, The Holylanders. Yeah, I know. Great name, right? It was fantastic. I played frisbee from around 9 to 10:50. I'm glad I'm here for the month of January because it means I get to be outside and moving. I got a ride back to Tel Aviv and from there caught a bus to the Bus station in Jerusalem. I was exhausted by that time so I figure I'd just hop in a cab back to my friend's place. As I was telling the cab driver where I wanted to go, another guy came and said he was going to a place close to where i was going. We get in the cab, and start driving, and the guy starts telling the cab driver that he should take him first then swing back and drop me off. I was too exhausted to protest, so I just sat in the back and listened to the conversation upfront. I caught most of what they were saying. Long story short, I was in the cab for a lot longer than I should have been, but paid less than I would have because the guy gave me 25 shekels for a trip that cost 45 total. Actually, I probably would have paid 20 shekel either way. After the guy was dropped off, the cab driver turned to me and said, in hebrew, I thought you two were together when he first got in. I didn't agree to what he was saying. Riding alone is better. And all I could mutter was yes. I agree. I was really happy when I finally got out and made it to my friend's apartment by 12:30. Another late night, but it was a fantastic day.

Yesterday, I got up late and walked downtown by myself, walked through Ben Yahuda, up to the Shuk (the open market) and then headed back. The rest of my day consisted of a nap, hanging out and relaxing, and going to a local bar with one of my friend's housemates.

Things are going well. Relaxing mostly. Spending time outside. Hope the cold isn't too bad at home! Saturday I'm going to Tul Karum which is in the West Bank. I'm really excited!

There are a few things I'd like to do while I'm here, like spend two or three days in Tel Aviv and go to the beach, maybe even make it to Tzfat this time (a really cool ancient city), and just spend time walking around. It's nice being able to do research and relax at the same time.

Tuesday, January 5, 2010

A Return to Israel, Ultimate Peace Style

As per the request of my mother and one of my teammates on BomBARDment, I have reinstated the use of my Israel blog. This time, however, I'm returning on a trip that is turning out to be half vacation half work. I'm doing research for my senior project at Bard on Ultimate Peace, an organization whose mission is to build bonds of friendship through Ultimate Frisbee, especially between kids in conflict zones. It's a pretty sweet and interesting idea, and this month, I'm going to be traveling with volunteer coaches to each of 7 communities, some in the West Bank, some in Israel, to participate, observe, take notes, and hopefully return to interview some of the kids and coaches.
It amazes me that I have yet to be in Israel for a full day, and yet I feel like I've been here for a week. It seems like this entry resembles the first entry of this blog, because what I'm about to recount was a pretty hellish flight experience, not unlike my trip from EWR to Heathrow and from Heathrow to TLV. Let's rewind quickly to January 3rd at around 5:30 pm. I'd just gotten back from seeing The Tempest at Drew (which by the way was great) and I wanted to check in online. As I was putting in my information, I noticed that my flight was recorded as being delayed. No, it wasn't just delayed, it was pushed back 7 hours and 10 minutes from 10:50 pm to 6:00 am the next morning. I was now scheduled to arrive at 11:20 pm. Great. Just what I need, another long shitty flight to Israel. I kept tabs on the progress of my flight and low and behold, it stayed the same. To add on to that, when I called Continental Customer service the last time, the southern man I spoke to informed me that Terminal C was on lock down and everyone had to be evacuated and go back through security. So not only was my plane delayed because they were "switching equipment"-- what they really mean is they switched our plane and made us wait more-- but the Terminal was craziness. Luckily I only live 10 minutes away from the airport, so I got there around 2:15 am. For a 6:00 am flight. The kiosk, I was informed, wasn't supposed to open until 3:30 am. Keeps getting better. However, they opened it just for the Tel Aviv flight and about twenty minutes later I was sitting outside of the security zone of gate C-138. Long story short, the flight got moved back again to about 7:50 am take off time. Apparently there's a curfew at Tel Aviv that shuts off any planes from landing between 1 and 3 am. Something about needing to process the people from international flights who arrive before then. Well, people jumped to conclusions with this informationg, got angry, mob around the desk, people yelling, and the captain eventually came out and clarified that this meant we were going to try to land BEFORE 1 am, around 12:30 am. He told everyone "no one is disseminating false information." I just sat there chuckling to myself.
The plane boarded and I had a great seat, 18A, window and close to the exit of the plane so I wouldn't have to wait to get off when it landed. I walk up to my seat and there's someone in it. "I think we've been double booked." Girl sitting next to person in my seat, "Oh, actually I booked my ticket late and wanted to sit with my boyfriend, would you mind trading seats?" "I mean... I guess. It's a long flight, you two should be near each other." "Are you sure?" "Yeah... it's fine" (while thinking in my head just great). "Where's your seat" "Oh, it's in the back, 44f"
44f was the second to the last row in the middle. ARG. Last time I do that. I ended up switching to the row next to me to a window seat. We had to keep the blinds shut most of the time but it was still worth it.
When I got in, it was 1:20 am. Passport control lines were fine but of course I got stuck in the one that had a broken computer. I probably stood there for fifteen minutes with one person in front of me without moving. Finally moved, my bags came off the conveyor belt within two minutes, which was fantastic. I found a sheirut and I made it to Rehavia, to Aliza's apartment by 3:30 am. Fell asleep at 4, woke up at 8:40 am to start my day. And that will be a story for tomorrow.

PHEW
I'm here. I'm excited. Get excited